Distributor failure / ignition misfire
high- Typically appears
- 80–150k mi
- Estimated repair
- $180 – $380
1998 Nissan
AltimaSedan
Sedan
The 1998 Nissan Altima is a second-generation (1993–1997 design carried through 1997, then refreshed for 1998) front-wheel-drive midsize sedan powered by Nissan's KA24DE 2.4-liter inline-four. It sits between the Sentra and Maxima in Nissan's lineup and was marketed as a practical, affordable alternative to the Camry and Accord. At this point in its life, the Altima had a reputation as a reliable workhorse that rewarded consistent maintenance. By 1998, this generation of Altima was in its final year before the all-new third-generation arrived for 1999. That means used examples have now accumulated 25+ years of road miles and, in Wisconsin, significant salt exposure. The mechanicals are relatively simple — no variable valve timing, no turbo, no complex AWD system — which makes it easier and cheaper to keep running than many later models. For a high-mileage example, the biggest concerns are rust (especially on sub-frames, brake lines, and floor pans), worn front suspension components, and the condition of the automatic transmission if equipped. The engine itself is stout and known to last well past 200k miles when the oil has been changed regularly.
Reliability
3/5
Verified data
Specs shown for Altima — the most common configuration.
Other trims may vary in engine, drivetrain, or fuel economy. Sign in to see your vehicle's exact specs.
Engine
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Drivetrain
FWD
Fuel
Gasoline
MPG
20 city / 28 hwy / 23 combined
Seats
—
Doors
—
Body
Compact Cars
Overview
AI-curatedThe 1998 Nissan Altima is a second-generation (1993–1997 design carried through 1997, then refreshed for 1998) front-wheel-drive midsize sedan powered by Nissan's KA24DE 2.4-liter inline-four. It sits between the Sentra and Maxima in Nissan's lineup and was marketed as a practical, affordable alternative to the Camry and Accord. At this point in its life, the Altima had a reputation as a reliable workhorse that rewarded consistent maintenance. By 1998, this generation of Altima was in its final year before the all-new third-generation arrived for 1999. That means used examples have now accumulated 25+ years of road miles and, in Wisconsin, significant salt exposure. The mechanicals are relatively simple — no variable valve timing, no turbo, no complex AWD system — which makes it easier and cheaper to keep running than many later models. For a high-mileage example, the biggest concerns are rust (especially on sub-frames, brake lines, and floor pans), worn front suspension components, and the condition of the automatic transmission if equipped. The engine itself is stout and known to last well past 200k miles when the oil has been changed regularly.
Known for
- Durable KA24DE 2.4L four-cylinder engine with a long service life
- Simple, DIY-friendly mechanical layout
- Comfortable ride quality for its class and era
- Affordable parts and independent-shop repair costs
Best for
- Budget-conscious buyers who want a simple, repairable daily driver
- City and suburban commuters who prioritize low operating costs
- Owners comfortable with an older vehicle that needs attention to rust and wear items
Watch for
- Heavy rust on brake lines, sub-frame, and floor pan — a real concern on any Wisconsin example
- Automatic transmission longevity, especially if service history is unknown
- Distributor and ignition component failures common at higher mileages
- Oil consumption on high-mileage engines if not well maintained
Common issues by mileage
6 knownFront struts and sway bar end links worn out
high- Typically appears
- 80–150k mi
- Estimated repair
- $300 – $650
Automatic transmission failure or slipping
medium- Typically appears
- 100–160k mi
- Estimated repair
- $1,200 – $2,800
Exhaust manifold cracks / exhaust leaks
medium- Typically appears
- 100k+ mi
- Estimated repair
- $200 – $600
Brake line rust and failure (Wisconsin salt exposure)
high- Typically appears
- Any mileage on older examples
- Estimated repair
- $300 – $900
Oxygen sensor degradation causing rough idle and poor fuel economy
medium- Typically appears
- 80–120k mi
- Estimated repair
- $120 – $280
Maintenance schedule
- 1 Every 5,000 miles or 6 months Engine oil and filter change
The KA24DE rewards clean oil. Extended intervals on a 25+ year-old engine accelerate wear and contribute to oil consumption. Use conventional 5W-30 unless the engine has been rebuilt or is already burning oil.
- 2 Every 30,000 miles or if fluid is dark/burnt-smelling Transmission fluid change (automatic)
The RE4F04A automatic is sensitive to fluid condition. Most used examples have neglected this — fresh fluid and filter can extend transmission life significantly, but don't flush a very high-mileage unit with unknown history; a simple drain-and-fill is safer.
- 3 Every 30,000 miles Distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs
The KA24DE uses a distributor-based ignition system. Worn caps and rotors cause misfires and hard starts, especially in cold Wisconsin winters. Platinum plugs are fine; gap to spec.
- 4 Every 2 years or 30,000 miles Coolant flush
Old coolant loses its corrosion inhibitors. The aluminum head and iron block combination is prone to internal corrosion when coolant is neglected, and overheating on this engine can warp the head.
- 5 Every year — or immediately on any Wisconsin purchase Brake line and fuel line inspection
Salt corrosion on brake lines is a safety-critical issue on any upper Midwest vehicle of this age. A visual inspection every fall before winter is non-negotiable. Replace any line showing pitting or pinhole leaks.
- 6 Every 2 years or 30,000 miles Front suspension inspection (struts, tie rods, ball joints, sway bar links)
These components are well past design life on most surviving examples. Worn front-end parts increase stopping distance and make the car unpredictable on icy roads.
- 7 Inspect at 100k mi; replace tensioner if chain rattle is heard on cold start Timing chain and tensioner check
The KA24DE uses a timing chain (not a belt), which is durable, but the tensioner can weaken with age and cause chain noise or slack at high mileages.
- 8 Every fall before winter Battery test and terminal cleaning
Cold cranking demand spikes in Wisconsin winters. A battery over 4 years old should be load-tested before December. Clean any corrosion from terminals to ensure reliable starts at sub-zero temps.
Always defer to the manufacturer's service manual for warranty-mandated intervals.
Cost of ownership
Annual maintenance
$600 – $1,800
Fuel
At 23 MPG combined and typical Wisconsin driving, expect roughly $1,400–$1,800/year at current gas prices depending on annual mileage.
Insurance
Liability and comprehensive on a 1998 Altima typically runs $600–$1,000/year for a typical driver in the Lake Geneva area — one of the lower-cost vehicles to insure given its age and low book value.
Day-to-day operating costs are low. Parts are inexpensive and widely available, and labor rates at an independent shop are reasonable because the engine and chassis are straightforward to work on. The wildcard is deferred maintenance and rust remediation — a Wisconsin example that hasn't had brake lines or suspension addressed could require $1,500–$3,000 in catch-up repairs all at once. Budget accordingly when buying.
Seasonal care
Lake Geneva, WI Winter
- Test the battery every fall — a marginal battery that starts fine in October will often fail at 0°F. Replace anything over 4 years old proactively.
- Switch to a winter-grade washer fluid rated to at least -20°F. Lake Geneva winters will freeze standard fluid in the reservoir and lines.
- Inspect all brake lines and rubber brake hoses before the first snowfall. A 25+ year-old Wisconsin car is high risk for salt-corroded brake lines.
- Check antifreeze concentration — ensure protection to at least -34°F with a refractometer or test strip.
- Use a fuel system treatment (isopropyl-based) once per season if the car sits outside, to prevent moisture accumulation in the fuel system.
- Consider a block heater if the car is parked outdoors overnight — the KA24DE is a good cold-weather starter, but sub-zero cranking is hard on a high-mileage engine.
Summer
- Check tire pressure monthly — tires lose or gain roughly 1 PSI per 10°F of temperature change, and under-inflation in summer heat accelerates wear.
- Inspect the A/C system for refrigerant charge and compressor clutch operation before hot weather arrives. R-134a recharges are inexpensive but confirm there are no leaks first.
- Check coolant level and condition — summer heat and a neglected cooling system is the fastest way to warp the KA24DE's cylinder head.
- Inspect belts (serpentine, A/C) for cracking — heat accelerates rubber degradation on an older vehicle.
Comparable vehicles
1998 Toyota
Camry
Same segment, same era, same FWD layout. The Camry has a slight edge in long-term reliability reputation and rust resistance, but parts and repair costs are similar. A direct cross-shop for any buyer looking at a late-90s midsize sedan.
1998 Honda
Accord
The Accord was the Altima's primary target competitor. Similar price point, similar fuel economy, proven reliability. F-series engines are arguably more robust at very high mileage. Also susceptible to rust in Wisconsin.
1998 Mazda
626
Another front-wheel-drive midsize sedan from the same era with a similar ownership cost profile. Less common, so parts can be harder to source locally, but worth considering as an alternative.
1998 Chevrolet
Malibu
The redesigned 1998 Malibu competes in the same affordable midsize sedan space. Domestic parts availability is strong, but long-term reliability doesn't match the Japanese alternatives. A reasonable budget alternative.
If you're shopping for one
Red flags
- Any brake line or fuel line with visible pitting, holes, or active corrosion — safety issue, and repair cost can exceed the car's value.
- Sub-frame rust severe enough that it's structurally compromised — this makes the car uneconomical to repair.
- Transmission that slips, shudders, or delays engagement — rebuilt or replacement units are expensive relative to the car's value.
- Overheating history or evidence of head gasket failure (milky oil, white exhaust smoke, coolant loss with no visible leak).
- No service records and high mileage — on a 25-year-old car, unknown history is a significant risk.
- Check engine light on at purchase with no explanation from the seller — get it scanned before buying.
What to inspect
- Get under the car and inspect brake lines, fuel lines, and the sub-frame for rust — this is the single most important inspection on any Wisconsin Altima of this age. Surface rust is normal; pitting, flaking, or holes on brake/fuel lines are deal-breakers.
- Check the floor pan from inside for soft spots or carpet that's wet — signs of severe underbody rust coming through.
- Pull the transmission dipstick: fluid should be red/pink and smell clean. Dark brown or burnt-smelling fluid signals neglect.
- Cold-start the engine and listen for timing chain rattle or knocking that goes away after warm-up — normal operation is quiet within 30 seconds of start.
- Check for oil in the coolant (milky residue on the radiator cap) and coolant in the oil (grey foam on the dipstick) — signs of a blown head gasket.
- Test the distributor-based ignition: look for rough idle, hesitation, or misfires that could indicate a worn distributor cap or rotor.
- Inspect all four struts for leaking oil — a wet strut body means it's blown and will need replacement.