Deteriorated or incorrect fuel delivery (gravity-feed system)
high- Typically appears
- Any mileage / any age
- Estimated repair
- $150 – $600
1927 Chrysler
Series 50Phaeton
160 CI I4 · Phaeton
The 1927 Chrysler Series 50 Phaeton is a pre-Depression open touring car — a four-door, four-season body style with a fold-down canvas top, no side windows, and jump seats that could accommodate up to five or six passengers. It was part of Chrysler's entry-level lineup for 1927, positioned below the Series 60 and 70, but still offered hydraulic four-wheel brakes — a genuine engineering advantage over many competitors of the era. Walter Chrysler had only launched the brand in 1924, and the Series 50 represented his push to deliver modern engineering at an accessible price point. Powered by a 160 cubic inch inline-four making roughly 38 horsepower, the Series 50 is a slow, deliberate machine by any modern standard. Top speed is around 55–60 mph on a flat road, and the three-speed sliding-gear manual transmission demands deliberate double-clutch technique. Fuel delivery is by gravity feed from a cowl-mounted tank — there is no fuel pump. Ignition is a magneto-style system with a hand-throttle and spark advance lever on the steering column. Today, surviving Series 50 Phaetons are antique collector vehicles. Open phaetons are among the rarer body styles because they were more susceptible to weather damage and were often discarded as they aged. Any example still running has almost certainly been restored or heavily serviced at some point. This is not a daily driver — it is a show, parade, or club touring car that requires an owner comfortable with vintage mechanics or access to a specialist.
Reliability
3/5
Verified data
Engine
160 CI I4
Drivetrain
RWD
Fuel
Gasoline
MPG
18–22 estimated (no EPA rating)
Seats
5
Doors
4
Body
Convertible
MSRP
$895
Overview
AI-curatedThe 1927 Chrysler Series 50 Phaeton is a pre-Depression open touring car — a four-door, four-season body style with a fold-down canvas top, no side windows, and jump seats that could accommodate up to five or six passengers. It was part of Chrysler's entry-level lineup for 1927, positioned below the Series 60 and 70, but still offered hydraulic four-wheel brakes — a genuine engineering advantage over many competitors of the era. Walter Chrysler had only launched the brand in 1924, and the Series 50 represented his push to deliver modern engineering at an accessible price point. Powered by a 160 cubic inch inline-four making roughly 38 horsepower, the Series 50 is a slow, deliberate machine by any modern standard. Top speed is around 55–60 mph on a flat road, and the three-speed sliding-gear manual transmission demands deliberate double-clutch technique. Fuel delivery is by gravity feed from a cowl-mounted tank — there is no fuel pump. Ignition is a magneto-style system with a hand-throttle and spark advance lever on the steering column. Today, surviving Series 50 Phaetons are antique collector vehicles. Open phaetons are among the rarer body styles because they were more susceptible to weather damage and were often discarded as they aged. Any example still running has almost certainly been restored or heavily serviced at some point. This is not a daily driver — it is a show, parade, or club touring car that requires an owner comfortable with vintage mechanics or access to a specialist.
Known for
- Hydraulic four-wheel brakes — ahead of most 1920s competitors
- Gravity-fed fuel system with no mechanical fuel pump
- Open phaeton body with fold-down canvas top and no roll-up side windows
- Double-clutch sliding-gear manual transmission requiring deliberate technique
- Significant early Chrysler brand history — only the third full model year of the marque
Best for
- Antique car collectors and enthusiasts
- Concours, parade, and vintage touring club events
- Owners with mechanical aptitude or access to a pre-war specialist
- Display and show use
Watch for
- Near-century-old rubber: hoses, gaskets, and seals will be degraded or already replaced with non-original materials
- Canvas top and upholstery are almost certainly non-original and may hide water damage to wood or metal structure
- Asbestos content possible in original brake linings — test before any brake work
- No modern safety features: no seatbelts, no crumple zones, no airbags
- Parts availability is extremely limited; most components require fabrication or specialized vendors
Common issues by mileage
6 knownCarburetor wear, flooding, or incorrect jetting
high- Typically appears
- Any mileage / any age
- Estimated repair
- $200 – $800
Brake system issues — worn or asbestos-containing lining, soft pedal, leaking wheel cylinders
high- Typically appears
- Any mileage / any age
- Estimated repair
- $400 – $1,500
Engine oil leaks at pan gasket, valve cover, and rear main seal (rope-style)
high- Typically appears
- Any mileage / any age
- Estimated repair
- $300 – $1,200
Electrical system faults — corroded wiring, failed generator, weak or incompatible battery
medium- Typically appears
- Any mileage / any age
- Estimated repair
- $200 – $1,000
Wooden body frame rot or structural deterioration beneath upholstery and canvas
medium- Typically appears
- Any mileage / any age
- Estimated repair
- $1,000 – $8,000
Maintenance schedule
- 1 Every 1,000–1,500 miles or annually Engine oil and filter change using period-appropriate viscosity (straight-weight or modern non-detergent equivalent)
Vintage engines have loose tolerances and splash-lubrication passages that can be disrupted by modern detergent oils if the engine has never been run on them. Consult your restorer before switching oil type.
- 2 Each season or if engine pings or runs rough Inspect and adjust ignition timing via steering-column spark advance
Timing is manually controlled; there is no vacuum advance. Incorrect setting causes poor performance and can damage pistons.
- 3 Annually or before any extended use Clean and adjust carburetor float, needle, and jets
Ethanol in modern pump gasoline degrades old carburetor components and can cause gum deposits; ethanol-free fuel is strongly preferred for this vehicle.
- 4 Before any storage period Drain fuel system if storing for more than 30 days
The gravity-feed cowl tank and float bowl are prone to varnish buildup from ethanol-blended fuel sitting unused.
- 5 Annually or every 2,000 miles Inspect and repack wheel bearings
Early Chrysler wheel bearings are non-sealed and rely on grease packing. Dry bearings on a 100-year-old axle will fail quickly.
- 6 Each spring Inspect canvas top, bows, and side curtain snaps for tears and mold
Water infiltration through a failed top rots the wooden body frame — the most expensive repair on an open phaeton.
- 7 Each spring after winter storage Check battery and generator charging output
6-volt systems (or 12-volt conversions) common on restored examples are sensitive to poor connections; a weak generator won't keep a battery charged at low parade speeds.
- 8 Before first use if ownership is new, then annually Inspect brake linings and hydraulic lines for condition and asbestos content before any brake work
Original linings may contain asbestos. Do not dry-sand, blow out, or machine brake components until tested. Hydraulic lines on vehicles of this age are a safety concern.
Always defer to the manufacturer's service manual for warranty-mandated intervals.
Cost of ownership
Annual maintenance
$500 – $4,000
Fuel
Very low fuel consumption at typical show/parade use (under 500 miles/year for most owners). Ethanol-free premium fuel is strongly recommended and may cost slightly more per gallon. Annual fuel cost for typical use is under $200.
Insurance
Agreed-value antique/collector car insurance is typically $200–$600/year for a vehicle of this type and value, far below standard auto rates. Usage restrictions (mileage limits, no daily driving) apply.
Annual out-of-pocket costs for a well-restored, low-use example are relatively modest — mostly storage, insurance, and occasional consumables. The financial risk is in deferred restoration work or unexpected structural finds (wood rot, brake system, engine seals). Budget $500–$1,500/year for routine upkeep on a solid example; a car needing serious work can run $5,000–$20,000+ in a single season. Parts fabrication and pre-war specialist labor rates in the upper Midwest typically run $80–$120/hour.
Seasonal care
Lake Geneva, WI Winter
- Store indoors in a climate-controlled or at minimum dry, unheated garage — the open phaeton body offers zero protection to the interior and mechanical components if left outside.
- Drain the fuel system completely before storage; ethanol-blended fuel left in a vintage carburetor and gravity tank will varnish over a Wisconsin winter.
- Disconnect the battery (6V or 12V conversion) and store it on a maintainer indoors — sub-zero temps will destroy a marginal battery overnight.
- Apply a quality corrosion inhibitor to all exposed chassis, suspension, and brake hardware before storage; road salt exposure even from a single wet-road drive can accelerate rust on 100-year-old steel dramatically.
- Cover with a breathable cloth car cover — not plastic — to allow moisture to escape and prevent canvas top and upholstery mold.
- Place the vehicle on jack stands if storing more than 3 months to prevent flat-spotting of aged tires and to relieve spring compression.
Summer
- Check tire condition and pressure before every outing — vintage tires age-crack even with low mileage; inspect sidewalls closely.
- Monitor engine temperature closely during slow parade or show use; vintage cooling systems with no thermostat bypass can heat-soak in stop-and-go conditions.
- Carry extra water and a basic tool kit on any touring run — roadside assistance for a 1927 vehicle is essentially non-existent.
- Inspect canvas top snaps and bows before summer touring season; UV and heat degrade canvas quickly in Wisconsin summers.
- Use ethanol-free fuel for all summer operation to avoid carburetor and fuel-line degradation.
Comparable vehicles
1927 Buick
Series 115
Direct contemporary in the same open touring body style; similar price point and inline-four power; also features four-wheel brakes by 1927. Strong club support through the Buick Club of America.
1927 Dodge
Senior Six Phaeton
Comparable open phaeton from the same mid-1920s American mainstream; slightly more powerful inline-six; similar restoration challenges and parts availability situation.
No catalog match1927 Studebaker
Erskine Series 50
Period competitor at a comparable price; similar four-cylinder configuration and open body availability; Studebaker club support exists for restoration research.
No catalog match
1928 Chrysler
Series 52
Immediate successor sharing much of the same mechanical DNA; slightly updated engine and trim; parts cross-reference between Series 50 and 52 makes the 52 a useful donor or comparison vehicle for restoration.
If you're shopping for one
Red flags
- Fresh paint over body panels without documentation of what was repaired underneath
- Silicone sealant visible anywhere on the engine or fuel system — sign of deferred repairs
- No documentation of brake lining material — assume asbestos until tested
- Mismatched or obviously modern fasteners throughout the engine bay without explanation
- Soft or punky feel anywhere along the door frames, sill plates, or floor — wood rot is extremely expensive to correct on an open phaeton
- Seller cannot demonstrate a running, driving vehicle — a non-runner of this age can hide months of specialist labor
What to inspect
- Wooden body framing under upholstery panels and behind door skins — probe for soft spots indicating rot
- Canvas top and bows for tears, mold, and water staining on the headliner or rear seat
- Brake hydraulic lines and wheel cylinders for leaks; confirm lining material is asbestos-free before any brake service
- Gravity-feed fuel tank (mounted on the cowl) for leaks, rust, and evidence of sealant repairs
- Generator output and all wiring for correct gauge, insulation condition, and any amateur splices
- Frame rails and cross-members for cracks, repairs, or heavy rust — especially around the rear spring mounts
- Authenticity of major components if show-class correctness matters: engine numbers, body tag, and trim items