Babbit bearing wear in crankshaft and rod bearings
high- Typically appears
- Any unrestored example
- Estimated repair
- $800 – $2,500
1928 Chrysler
Series 52Roadster
175 CI I4 · Roadster
The 1928 Chrysler Series 52 is a light four-cylinder touring-era automobile from Chrysler's early lineup, positioned as an entry-level companion to the larger six-cylinder Series 62. Powered by a 175 cubic-inch L-head (flathead) inline-four, it was a solid, unpretentious machine built when Chrysler was still proving itself as a marque — the company had only been founded in 1925. The Series 52 Roadster body style features an open two-door configuration with a fold-down soft top, no side windows, and minimal weather protection by modern standards. At nearly 100 years old, any surviving example is a collector and hobby vehicle, not a daily driver. These cars require an owner who is comfortable sourcing obsolete parts, working with flathead engine specialists, and treating the car as a restoration or show project. Modern safety equipment, emissions controls, and OBD diagnostics simply do not apply. In the Lake Geneva area, this car's viability is strictly seasonal — spring car shows, summer cruises, and short fair-weather drives only. Wisconsin winters are categorically off-limits for a vehicle of this era.
Reliability
3/5
Verified data
Engine
175 CI L-head I4
Drivetrain
RWD
Fuel
Gasoline
MPG
—
Seats
2
Doors
2
Body
Convertible
MSRP
$795
Overview
AI-curatedThe 1928 Chrysler Series 52 is a light four-cylinder touring-era automobile from Chrysler's early lineup, positioned as an entry-level companion to the larger six-cylinder Series 62. Powered by a 175 cubic-inch L-head (flathead) inline-four, it was a solid, unpretentious machine built when Chrysler was still proving itself as a marque — the company had only been founded in 1925. The Series 52 Roadster body style features an open two-door configuration with a fold-down soft top, no side windows, and minimal weather protection by modern standards. At nearly 100 years old, any surviving example is a collector and hobby vehicle, not a daily driver. These cars require an owner who is comfortable sourcing obsolete parts, working with flathead engine specialists, and treating the car as a restoration or show project. Modern safety equipment, emissions controls, and OBD diagnostics simply do not apply. In the Lake Geneva area, this car's viability is strictly seasonal — spring car shows, summer cruises, and short fair-weather drives only. Wisconsin winters are categorically off-limits for a vehicle of this era.
Known for
- Simple, rebuildable 175 CI L-head inline-four engine
- Classic open roadster coachwork typical of late 1920s American style
- Hydraulic four-wheel brakes — an advanced feature for its era
- Low production numbers making survivors genuinely rare
Best for
- Experienced antique car collectors and restorers
- Car show and concours participants
- Fair-weather seasonal driving only
- Hobbyists who enjoy hands-on mechanical work
Watch for
- No modern safety equipment — no seatbelts, crumple zones, or airbags
- Extreme parts scarcity; many components require custom fabrication or specialist sourcing
- Fabric/leather open-body construction is highly vulnerable to moisture and rot
- Original wiring is cloth-wrapped and a fire hazard if not inspected and replaced
- Drum brakes with period-correct performance — stopping distances are very long by modern standards
Common issues by mileage
6 knownDeteriorated fuel system — rotted rubber lines, corroded zinc carburetor body, sediment bowl blockage
high- Typically appears
- Any unrestored example
- Estimated repair
- $300 – $1,200
Cloth wiring insulation failure and fire risk
high- Typically appears
- Any unrestored example
- Estimated repair
- $600 – $2,000
Worn or seized hydraulic brake components (wheel cylinders, master cylinder)
high- Typically appears
- Any unrestored example
- Estimated repair
- $400 – $1,500
Soft top and body panel wood frame rot
medium- Typically appears
- Any example stored outdoors or in humid conditions
- Estimated repair
- $500 – $4,000
Valve seat recession or stuck valves in flathead cylinder head
medium- Typically appears
- Any example run on modern unleaded fuel without hardened seats
- Estimated repair
- $600 – $2,200
Maintenance schedule
- 1 Every tankful Use a lead substitute fuel additive at every fill-up
The original flathead head was designed for leaded fuel. Modern unleaded gasoline lacks the lubrication tetraethyl lead provided for valve seats; without a supplement or hardened seat conversion, valve recession will occur over time.
- 2 Every 1,000–1,500 miles or once per season Change engine oil with non-detergent straight-weight oil (SAE 30 or 40)
Babbit-bearing engines do not tolerate modern detergent oils well. Detergents can loosen decades of built-up deposits suddenly, clogging oil passages. Use straight-weight non-detergent oil as recommended for pre-1950s engines.
- 3 Every spring before first drive Inspect and clean carburetor sediment bowl and fuel strainer
Ethanol in modern pump gas attracts moisture and accelerates corrosion inside the carburetor and fuel lines over winter storage. Clean sediment bowls and check fuel lines every season.
- 4 Every season or 500 miles Check and adjust ignition timing and point gap
The breaker-point ignition requires periodic adjustment. Points wear, gap changes, and the distributor advance mechanism can stick — all causing hard starting and rough running.
- 5 Every 200–500 miles Inspect and lubricate all grease fittings (zerks) on chassis, steering, and suspension
1920s chassis have numerous grease zerks that require hand-packing or a grease gun regularly. Neglecting these leads to rapid wear of exposed metal-on-metal joints.
- 6 Every spring before driving season Test and bleed hydraulic brakes
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over winter storage, lowering its boiling point and accelerating corrosion inside wheel cylinders. Flush and bleed before the first drive of the season.
- 7 Annually Inspect soft top frame, fabric, and body wood framing for rot or cracking
Open roadster bodies use wooden subframes behind the sheet metal. Moisture intrusion leads to hidden rot that compromises structural integrity and accelerates body panel rust.
- 8 Every fall before storage Drain fuel and stabilize or drain tank for winter storage
Ethanol-blended fuel degrades rapidly. Leaving it in the tank and carburetor over a Wisconsin winter causes varnish deposits, corroded jets, and a stuck float valve by spring.
Always defer to the manufacturer's service manual for warranty-mandated intervals.
Cost of ownership
Annual maintenance
$500 – $3,000
Fuel
Fuel cost is negligible given seasonal/show use; however, ethanol-free premium is strongly recommended and may require seeking out specialty stations. Budget for lead substitute additive year-round.
Insurance
Agreed-value collector car insurance is available at low annual premiums (often $200–$600/yr) given very limited mileage. Do not insure under a standard auto policy — it will not reflect the vehicle's true collector value.
Annual costs depend almost entirely on what work a given example needs. A fully restored, show-ready car in good mechanical condition may need only consumables (oil, plugs, grease, additives) — under $500 in a quiet year. Any mechanical issue, however, quickly escalates due to parts scarcity: many components must be sourced from marque club swap meets, machined to spec, or fabricated from scratch. Budget $1,000–$3,000/yr for active use and ongoing upkeep, and keep a contingency fund for major restoration work.
Seasonal care
Lake Geneva, WI Winter
- This car must not be driven in Wisconsin winters — full stop. Salt, moisture, and sub-zero temperatures will rapidly destroy unprotected 1920s metal, rubber, fabric, and wood construction.
- Store indoors in a climate-controlled or at minimum dry, unheated garage. Avoid dirt-floor storage where ground moisture wicks into the body wood and undercarriage.
- Drain or fully stabilize the fuel system before storage. Drain the carburetor float bowl manually to prevent varnish deposits from ethanol-blended fuel.
- Disconnect the battery (if a modern replacement is fitted) and store it on a trickle maintainer indoors. Original 6-volt systems are especially vulnerable to sulfation in cold storage.
- Place the car on jack stands to take weight off tires and prevent flat-spotting over a 4–5 month storage period.
- Use a breathable fabric car cover — never plastic — to prevent condensation buildup on the body and soft top.
Summer
- Check coolant level and radiator condition before every outing. These engines run hot in traffic with period-correct cooling systems and no thermostat bypass.
- Carry water and a basic tool kit on any drive. Vapor lock in the fuel line is a real risk on hot days; parking in shade and allowing a cool-down period resolves most cases.
- Inspect tire condition carefully before summer show season. Bias-ply or reproduction tires age-crack even with low mileage. Check sidewalls visually for cracking before each use.
- Check all fluid levels — oil, brake fluid, coolant — before each outing, as 1920s engines and seals weep more than modern vehicles.
- Monitor generator (not alternator) charging output. Heat accelerates wear on the brush contacts and voltage regulator points in period electrical systems.
Comparable vehicles
1928 Ford
Model A Roadster
Direct contemporary competitor in the same price bracket and body style. Model A parts availability is significantly better due to far higher production numbers and an enormous hobbyist community.
1928 Chevrolet
National AB Roadster
GM's entry-level four-cylinder roadster of the same era. Similar mechanical simplicity, comparable collector market, and overlapping parts networks through marque clubs.
1928 Dodge
Senior Six Roadster
A step up in displacement from Chrysler's own corporate family; comparable open-body collector appeal with slightly better parts support through Mopar heritage organizations.
No catalog match
1929 Chrysler
Series 65
The next-generation Chrysler six-cylinder. If you want a more powerful, slightly more parts-supported open Chrysler from the same era, the 65 is the natural sibling comparison.
If you're shopping for one
Red flags
- No paper trail or documentation — seller cannot explain what work has been done or when.
- Engine starts only when warm or requires repeated priming — points to serious carburetion or ignition issues that may mask deeper problems.
- Any evidence of water intrusion in the cockpit, staining on the floorboards, or musty smell — indicates frame wood rot and potential rust throughout.
- Brake pedal that goes to the floor or feels spongy — hydraulic system may be compromised and unsafe to drive.
- Obvious body filler in large areas — may be hiding rust-through on irreplaceable sheetmetal.
- A VIN or serial number that doesn't match marque registry records — reproduction or misrepresented vehicles exist in the antique market.
What to inspect
- Request complete restoration documentation — receipts, photos, and a shop history. An undocumented restoration is an unknown quantity.
- Inspect the body wood framing behind door jambs, firewall, and under the soft top header — probe for soft spots indicating rot.
- Start the engine cold and watch for blue smoke (worn rings/guides), excessive clattering (babbit bearing wear), or oil pressure gauge that doesn't rise promptly.
- Check all four brake drums for scoring and all four wheel cylinders for seeping brake fluid.
- Examine all wiring — look for cloth-wrapped original wiring that has become brittle, spliced, or taped. Modern re-wiring is a plus, not a negative.
- Verify the vehicle's identity through Chrysler marque registries (e.g., Walter P. Chrysler Club). Production numbers are low and documentation adds significant value.
- Inspect the frame rails and crossmembers for rust perforation, especially at the front spring perches and body mount points.