Head Gasket Failure (EJ253)
high- Typically appears
- 80–150k mi
- Estimated repair
- $1,200 – $2,200
Popular pick
2007 Subaru
ImprezaSedan
2.5L SOHC EJ253 · Sedan
The 2007 Subaru Impreza sedan is a compact, all-wheel-drive car that carved out a loyal following by offering genuine AWD traction at an affordable price. This generation (GD/GG, 2002–2007) was the last of the classic boxy Impreza body before the fully redesigned 2008 model arrived. It's a sensible, practical compact with a flat-four engine, a low-to-the-ground stance, and Subaru's symmetrical AWD system as its core selling point. Powered by the naturally aspirated 2.5L SOHC EJ253, this is the base workhorse engine — not the turbocharged STI unit. It makes modest power (173 hp) and returns reasonable fuel economy for an AWD car. The 5-speed manual transmission in this configuration keeps things simple and reliable. Overall build quality is decent for the era, though this generation has some well-documented weak points that every buyer should know. At 17 years old, most surviving examples have crossed the 100,000-mile mark. The EJ-series engine is durable if the head gaskets hold — and that's the big 'if' with this generation. Buyers who confirm clean cooling history and no oil/coolant mixing can expect many more miles. Those who don't may be looking at a costly repair shortly after purchase.
Reliability
3/5
Verified data
Engine
2.5L SOHC EJ253
Drivetrain
AWD/All-Wheel Drive
Fuel
Gasoline
MPG
20 city / 27 highway
Seats
5
Doors
4
Body
Sedan
MSRP
$17,995
Overview
AI-curatedThe 2007 Subaru Impreza sedan is a compact, all-wheel-drive car that carved out a loyal following by offering genuine AWD traction at an affordable price. This generation (GD/GG, 2002–2007) was the last of the classic boxy Impreza body before the fully redesigned 2008 model arrived. It's a sensible, practical compact with a flat-four engine, a low-to-the-ground stance, and Subaru's symmetrical AWD system as its core selling point. Powered by the naturally aspirated 2.5L SOHC EJ253, this is the base workhorse engine — not the turbocharged STI unit. It makes modest power (173 hp) and returns reasonable fuel economy for an AWD car. The 5-speed manual transmission in this configuration keeps things simple and reliable. Overall build quality is decent for the era, though this generation has some well-documented weak points that every buyer should know. At 17 years old, most surviving examples have crossed the 100,000-mile mark. The EJ-series engine is durable if the head gaskets hold — and that's the big 'if' with this generation. Buyers who confirm clean cooling history and no oil/coolant mixing can expect many more miles. Those who don't may be looking at a costly repair shortly after purchase.
Known for
- Symmetrical AWD standard on all trims — no upsell required
- Flat-four (boxer) engine with low center of gravity
- Compact exterior with a surprisingly practical interior
- Strong rally-car motorsport heritage from the WRX/STI siblings
- Loyal, active owner community with good parts availability
Best for
- Wisconsin winters — AWD handles snow and ice confidently
- Budget-conscious buyers who want year-round traction
- Drivers who prefer a manual transmission
- Commuters who want a small footprint with AWD
- DIY mechanics comfortable with boxer-engine quirks
Watch for
- EJ253 head gasket failure — the most expensive common repair on this generation
- Rust on rocker panels, wheel arches, and subframe from road salt exposure
- Timing belt service history — interference engine, skipped belt = engine damage
- Oil consumption between changes if head gaskets are seeping
- Deferred maintenance on AWD components (rear differential, transfer clutch)
Common issues by mileage
6 knownTiming Belt & Water Pump Service (Interference Engine)
high- Typically appears
- 60–105k mi (every 105k or 7 yrs)
- Estimated repair
- $550 – $950
Oxygen Sensor Failure
medium- Typically appears
- 80–130k mi
- Estimated repair
- $150 – $350
Rear Wheel Bearing Wear
medium- Typically appears
- 90–150k mi
- Estimated repair
- $250 – $500
Rocker Panel & Subframe Rust (Salt Belt)
high- Typically appears
- Any mileage on Wisconsin/Midwest cars
- Estimated repair
- $300 – $2,500
Clutch Wear (Manual Transmission)
medium- Typically appears
- 100–160k mi
- Estimated repair
- $600 – $1,100
Maintenance schedule
- 1 Every 105,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first Timing Belt, Water Pump & Tensioner Replacement
This is an interference engine — if the belt snaps, the valves and pistons collide and the engine is destroyed. Confirm the service was done and get the receipt. Replace the water pump at the same time since you're already there.
- 2 Every 5,000 miles or 6 months Engine Oil Change (full synthetic preferred)
Clean oil is the single biggest factor in EJ253 head gasket longevity. Low or dirty oil accelerates gasket wear. Use a quality 5W-30 full synthetic; check level every other fill-up on higher-mileage engines.
- 3 Every 30,000 miles or 2 years Coolant System Inspection & Flush
Degraded coolant accelerates aluminum corrosion around the head gasket sealing surfaces. Use only Subaru Super Coolant or an OAT equivalent. Check for oil in the coolant reservoir at every service — it's the earliest sign of a failing head gasket.
- 4 Every 30,000 miles Differential Fluid Change (front, rear, and transfer case)
Subaru's AWD system depends on fresh fluid in all three differentials. Skipping this causes premature clutch pack wear in the rear differential, which is a costly fix. Use fluid meeting Subaru's spec.
- 5 Every 2 years regardless of mileage Brake Fluid Flush
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, lowering its boiling point. On a car this age, this is almost certainly overdue if not documented.
- 6 Every 60,000 miles Spark Plugs (iridium or OEM equivalent)
The boxer layout makes plug access awkward but not terrible. Worn plugs cause rough idle and increased fuel consumption. Use OEM-spec iridium plugs.
- 7 Every spring and after heavy salt exposure Underbody Wash & Rust Inspection
Wisconsin road salt is aggressive on Impreza rocker panels, rear subframe crossmember, and spare tire well. Catching surface rust early and treating it is far cheaper than structural repairs or a failed inspection.
- 8 Every 60,000 miles or at signs of cracking Drive Belt (serpentine/accessory)
At this age and mileage, the accessory belt is likely original or near end of life. A snapped belt in a Wisconsin winter leaves you stranded with no alternator, no power steering, and no water pump.
Always defer to the manufacturer's service manual for warranty-mandated intervals.
Cost of ownership
Annual maintenance
$600 – $1,400
Fuel
At ~23 MPG combined and typical Wisconsin driving, expect roughly $1,800–$2,300/year at current mid-grade fuel prices. AWD carries a slight fuel penalty versus FWD competitors.
Insurance
Generally low to moderate for this segment and age — expect $900–$1,400/year for full coverage on a 17-year-old vehicle depending on your driving record and zip code.
Day-to-day, this is an affordable car to own. Routine maintenance runs $600–$900 in a normal year. The risk is the big-ticket items: a head gasket job ($1,200–$2,200), timing belt ($550–$950 if overdue), or rust repair can spike costs significantly in any single year. A pre-purchase inspection that clears those items is money well spent.
Seasonal care
Lake Geneva, WI Winter
- Battery test every fall — the EJ253's cold-start demands are hard on an aging battery. Replace preemptively if the battery is 4+ years old; Lake Geneva winters regularly hit -10°F.
- Switch to a full synthetic 5W-30 if not already running it — it flows far better than conventional oil on sub-zero cold starts, reducing dry-start wear.
- Install a dedicated set of winter tires on steel wheels. The AWD helps you go; it does not help you stop. Winter tires are the single biggest safety upgrade for Wisconsin driving.
- Fill the washer fluid reservoir with a rated -20°F or lower formula before November. Top it off often — road salt spray burns through fluid quickly.
- Inspect and lubricate door seals and locks before freezing temps. Frozen door handles are a common nuisance; keep a de-icer in your bag, not in the car.
- Flush the undercarriage weekly during heavy salt season to protect the Impreza's known rust spots — especially the rocker panels and rear subframe.
Summer
- Check tire pressure after the first warm weeks — pressure rises roughly 1 PSI per 10°F increase. Overinflated tires from the winter-to-summer transition reduce traction and cause uneven wear.
- Inspect the A/C system before July heat. The manual A/C on this generation is simple but the refrigerant does slowly leak on older cars. Recharge if cooling is weak.
- Check coolant level and condition with the engine cold — summer heat stress is when a marginal head gasket finally lets go. Watch for sweet smell from the vents or white smoke at startup.
- Inspect rubber hoses and belts for heat cracking after winter brittleness. The underhood temps in summer on a boxer engine run high.
Comparable vehicles
2007 Mazda
3
Similar compact sedan size and price point; more fuel-efficient but FWD only. Better reliability record for the era, though no AWD option.
No catalog match
2007 Toyota
Corolla
Stronger reliability reputation and lower ownership cost; FWD only. Good alternative if AWD is not a priority and long-term low-cost ownership is.
2007 Mitsubishi
Lancer
Compact AWD sedan available at a similar price; shares the rally-bred heritage angle. Less parts availability and weaker dealer/indie shop support than Subaru.
2007 Subaru
Forester
Same EJ253 engine and AWD platform with more ground clearance and cargo room. If the sedan's size is borderline for your needs, the Forester offers more utility on the same mechanical foundation.
If you're shopping for one
Red flags
- White smoke from the exhaust on a warm engine — head gasket failure, walk away or negotiate heavily.
- Overheating history or a new radiator/thermostat with no explanation — the engine may already be compromised.
- Any rust that has perforated the rocker panels or appears on the subframe mounting points — structural rust on a salt-belt car can be unsafe and uneconomical to repair.
- A seller who can't provide any maintenance records on a 17-year-old car.
- Evidence of recent coolant top-offs (water marks in the overflow tank, fresh coolant smell) without a service explanation — masking a slow leak.
- Rough idle or misfires at startup — could indicate head gasket breach affecting cylinder pressure.
What to inspect
- Pull the oil dipstick and look for milky, foamy, or chocolate-milk-colored oil — the clearest sign of a head gasket leak mixing coolant into the engine oil.
- Remove the radiator cap cold and look for oily residue or bubbles when the engine warms — another head gasket red flag.
- Ask for the timing belt service receipt. If the owner can't produce one and the car is over 105k miles or 7 years since last service, budget $550–$950 immediately.
- Inspect rocker panels (the lower edges under the doors), rear wheel arches, and the spare tire well from underneath for rust perforation — not just surface rust.
- With the car running and in gear, listen for a humming or droning noise that changes with speed — a sign of worn wheel bearings, common on higher-mileage examples.
- Check that all four wheels pull equally when accelerating on loose gravel or wet pavement — AWD bind or a failing rear differential will be noticeable.