Dried or cracked cooling system hoses and gaskets
high- Typically appears
- All mileages — age-driven
- Estimated repair
- $200 – $800
1926 Chrysler
Series 50Phaeton
160 CI I4 · Phaeton
The 1926 Chrysler Series 50 Phaeton is one of the earliest automobiles to carry the Chrysler nameplate, launched just two years after Walter P. Chrysler founded the company in 1925. The Series 50 sat at the entry level of the Chrysler lineup for that era, powered by a 160 cubic-inch inline four-cylinder engine and riding on a conventional ladder frame with leaf springs all around. As an open-body Phaeton — a four-door, convertible-top touring car — it was built for leisurely open-air motoring, not year-round utility. By today's standards this is a full-blown antique automobile, now nearly 100 years old. Virtually every surviving example is a collector or show car, not a daily driver. Parts are sourced almost exclusively through antique auto salvage, specialty vendors, and club networks like the Walter P. Chrysler Club. Mechanical simplicity is its greatest practical asset: a flathead four, a three-speed sliding-gear manual, mechanical (not hydraulic) brakes, and no electronics whatsoever. Owning and maintaining one of these requires a different mindset than modern car ownership. You are caring for a piece of American automotive history. Expect to fabricate or have machined many parts that no longer exist off the shelf, and budget for specialist labor from a shop experienced with pre-war vehicles.
Reliability
3/5
Verified data
Engine
160 CI Flathead I4
Drivetrain
RWD
Fuel
Gasoline
MPG
—
Seats
5
Doors
4
Body
Convertible
MSRP
$1,095
Overview
AI-curatedThe 1926 Chrysler Series 50 Phaeton is one of the earliest automobiles to carry the Chrysler nameplate, launched just two years after Walter P. Chrysler founded the company in 1925. The Series 50 sat at the entry level of the Chrysler lineup for that era, powered by a 160 cubic-inch inline four-cylinder engine and riding on a conventional ladder frame with leaf springs all around. As an open-body Phaeton — a four-door, convertible-top touring car — it was built for leisurely open-air motoring, not year-round utility. By today's standards this is a full-blown antique automobile, now nearly 100 years old. Virtually every surviving example is a collector or show car, not a daily driver. Parts are sourced almost exclusively through antique auto salvage, specialty vendors, and club networks like the Walter P. Chrysler Club. Mechanical simplicity is its greatest practical asset: a flathead four, a three-speed sliding-gear manual, mechanical (not hydraulic) brakes, and no electronics whatsoever. Owning and maintaining one of these requires a different mindset than modern car ownership. You are caring for a piece of American automotive history. Expect to fabricate or have machined many parts that no longer exist off the shelf, and budget for specialist labor from a shop experienced with pre-war vehicles.
Known for
- Early Chrysler nameplate — historically significant as a second-year production car
- Simple flathead I4 engine that is easy to work on by hand
- Classic open Phaeton coachwork with fold-down canvas top
- Pioneering hydraulic four-wheel brakes (a Chrysler selling point of the era)
- Extremely low surviving population — a true collector's piece
Best for
- Antique car collectors and restorers
- Concours and car show participants
- Automotive history enthusiasts
- Drivers comfortable with pre-war mechanical systems
Watch for
- Nearly no off-the-shelf parts availability — most components require fabrication or NOS sourcing
- Open Phaeton body offers zero weather protection without the top in good condition
- Wood body framing (if original) is highly susceptible to rot after a century
- Mechanical brakes (cable/rod actuated on some systems) demand expert adjustment and inspection
- Lead-acid 6-volt electrical system is incompatible with modern accessories
Common issues by mileage
6 knownWorn or maladjusted mechanical brake system (cables, rods, linings)
high- Typically appears
- All mileages — inspection required
- Estimated repair
- $300 – $1,500
Deteriorated canvas convertible top fabric and bows
high- Typically appears
- All — nearly all original tops are end-of-life
- Estimated repair
- $800 – $3,000
Rotted or weakened wood body framing
medium- Typically appears
- All — dependent on storage history
- Estimated repair
- $1,500 – $8,000
6-volt electrical system failure (wiring, generator, ignition points)
medium- Typically appears
- All — insulation and contacts degrade over decades
- Estimated repair
- $200 – $1,200
Carburetor wear, gumming, and fuel delivery issues (ethanol compatibility)
high- Typically appears
- All — modern pump gasoline degrades old carb components
- Estimated repair
- $150 – $600
Maintenance schedule
- 1 Every spring before driving season Drain and flush the cooling system; inspect all hoses and the radiator core for cracks or pinhole leaks
Cast-iron blocks and brass radiators corrode internally over winter storage. A single cooling failure can crack the block or warp the head.
- 2 Every driving season or annually Inspect, adjust, and if needed reline the mechanical brake system
Mechanical brakes require precise cable/rod adjustment and evenly matched lining thickness to stop straight. This is a safety-critical item on every pre-war vehicle.
- 3 Every 1,000–1,500 miles of use or annually Change the engine oil using a non-detergent or ZDDP-fortified single-grade oil appropriate for flat-tappet engines
Modern API-rated oils lack the zinc/phosphorus (ZDDP) additives that protect flat-tappet camshafts and lifters. Using the wrong oil accelerates cam lobe wear.
- 4 Each spring Check and set ignition points, condenser, and timing
The distributor contact points are the ignition system on this engine. Worn or pitted points cause misfires, hard starts, and engine damage from running too rich.
- 5 Before each driving season Treat fuel tank and carburetor with an ethanol-compatible fuel stabilizer; inspect fuel lines for cracking
Modern gasoline containing ethanol degrades original rubber fuel lines, attacks zinc carb components, and leaves varnish deposits after sitting.
- 6 Annually Inspect all wood body framing for soft spots, rot, and loose joints
Phaeton bodies rely on hardwood framing. Moisture infiltration — especially relevant after Wisconsin winters — leads to structural rot that can compromise the entire body.
- 7 Before winter storage Drain the cooling system fully or fill with fresh period-appropriate antifreeze; fog the cylinders with oil; disconnect and store the 6-volt battery on a tender
A 6-volt lead-acid battery will not survive a Wisconsin winter on the shelf without maintenance charging. Coolant left in a cast-iron block from 1926 can crack it if it freezes.
- 8 Annually or before shows Lubricate all chassis grease fittings, king pins, spring shackles, and steering linkage
Pre-war chassis have numerous grease points that modern cars eliminated. Neglecting them causes accelerated wear in steering and suspension components that are extremely difficult to source.
Always defer to the manufacturer's service manual for warranty-mandated intervals.
Cost of ownership
Annual maintenance
$500 – $4,000
Fuel
Minimal — most owners drive 500–2,000 miles per year seasonally. Fuel cost is negligible but the engine requires ethanol-free or treated premium gasoline for carburetor longevity.
Insurance
Typically insured as a collector/antique vehicle through a specialty insurer at agreed value, which is far cheaper than standard auto insurance — often $200–$600/year depending on stated value and storage conditions.
Annual costs for a properly restored, show-driven Series 50 are relatively modest because mileage is low. Budget $500–$1,500 for routine seasonal prep in a good year. If bodywork, brake overhaul, top replacement, or machine shop work is needed, a single season can easily run $3,000–$8,000 or more. Specialist labor — from shops experienced with pre-war vehicles — commands premium rates, and that is money well spent. Amateur work on a car this rare and valuable causes irreversible damage.
Seasonal care
Lake Geneva, WI Winter
- This vehicle should NOT be driven in Wisconsin winters — road salt will destroy 98-year-old metal, wood, and canvas irreversibly. Store it completely off-season.
- Store in a heated or at minimum dry, climate-controlled garage. Humidity fluctuations cause wood framing to crack and metal to corrode.
- Fully drain the cooling system OR fill with fresh antifreeze rated well below 0°F. A cracked cast-iron block from 1926 cannot be replaced.
- Remove the 6-volt battery and keep it on a compatible maintenance charger (confirm charger is rated for 6-volt systems — most modern tenders default to 12V).
- Fog the cylinders with light oil through the spark plug holes before long storage to prevent dry-start scoring.
- Place the car on jack stands if storing longer than 2–3 months to prevent flat-spotting the aged tires and relieving suspension load.
Summer
- Monitor coolant temperature closely — the simple thermosyphon or early pump cooling system on this engine has very little margin before overheating in traffic or on hot days.
- Check tire pressure before each outing; aged bias-ply or reproduction tires lose pressure faster and are far more vulnerable to heat-induced blowout than modern radials.
- Inspect the canvas top and side curtains before any drive where weather is uncertain — the open Phaeton body offers no protection if the top fails or cannot be erected.
- Keep a fire extinguisher accessible; vintage carburetors can leak fuel onto a hot exhaust manifold with little warning.
Comparable vehicles
1926 Buick
Standard Six Series 20
Same era, similar price point and open-body touring variants, comparable collector market and parts-sourcing challenges.
1926 Dodge
Senior Six
Direct contemporary from a sister brand with overlapping collector community and similar four-door open body availability.
No catalog match
1926 Ford
Model T Touring
The dominant entry-level open tourer of the same year — far more parts availability due to volume, but a direct market and show-class comparable.
1927 Studebaker
Standard Six
Period-correct competitor in the same touring-car segment with a comparable inline engine and open coachwork, appealing to the same collector audience.
No catalog matchIf you're shopping for one
Red flags
- No documentation of restoration — a 98-year-old car with no paper trail is a significant financial risk
- Evidence of 12-volt electrical conversion without professional documentation
- Hydraulic brake conversion not disclosed upfront — alters originality and collector value
- Fresh paint hiding rust or bondo in the body — inspect door jambs, lower sills, and firewall closely
- Engine from a different year or make — engine number should match any available records
- Asking price far below comparable sales at auction — at this age, a suspiciously cheap car almost always means undisclosed structural or mechanical problems
What to inspect
- Wood body framing — probe every joint and sill for soft spots, rot, or repairs with non-period materials
- Frame rails for cracks, repairs, or rust-through (get under the car with a light)
- Brake system — have a pre-war brake specialist test and inspect all mechanical linkages, linings, and drums before any road test
- Engine for oil leaks, coolant weeps, and evidence of recent machine work vs. a decades-old rebuild
- Canvas top, bows, and side curtains — replacement is expensive and sourcing correct material is difficult
- 6-volt electrical system for amateur 12-volt conversion attempts, which can damage original components
- Carburetor and fuel lines for ethanol damage, gum deposits, or non-period replacement parts
- All body panels and brightwork for previous amateur bodywork, bondo, or incorrect paint