Vacuum fuel tank failure / fuel delivery problems
high- Typically appears
- All mileages on aged vehicles
- Estimated repair
- $150 – $800
1928 Chrysler
Series 65Phaeton
220 CI I6 · Phaeton
The 1928 Chrysler Series 65 Phaeton is a pre-Depression era open touring car built at the height of Chrysler's early ambition. Walter P. Chrysler had only founded the company in 1925, and by 1928 the Series 65 represented a solid mid-line offering — above the entry-level Series 52 but below the luxury Imperial. The Phaeton body style features a fully open cabin with a folding canvas top, no fixed roof pillars, and side curtains rather than roll-up windows, making it a quintessential 1920s touring car. Powered by a 220 cubic-inch inline six-cylinder engine, the Series 65 was considered a well-engineered automobile for its day, with hydraulic four-wheel brakes — a feature Chrysler had championed since 1924 and a genuine safety advantage over competitors still using mechanical brakes. The car rides on a ladder-frame chassis with semi-elliptic leaf springs at all four corners and mechanical fuel delivery via a vacuum tank system. Today this vehicle is a collectible antique. It has not been daily-driven in decades and requires the knowledge of a pre-war specialist, not a modern shop. Anyone owning or considering one should think of it as a rolling restoration project that rewards patience, period-correct parts sourcing, and an appreciation for early automotive engineering.
Reliability
3/5
Verified data
Engine
220 CI I6
Drivetrain
RWD
Fuel
Gasoline
MPG
—
Seats
5
Doors
4
Body
Convertible
MSRP
$1,395
Overview
AI-curatedThe 1928 Chrysler Series 65 Phaeton is a pre-Depression era open touring car built at the height of Chrysler's early ambition. Walter P. Chrysler had only founded the company in 1925, and by 1928 the Series 65 represented a solid mid-line offering — above the entry-level Series 52 but below the luxury Imperial. The Phaeton body style features a fully open cabin with a folding canvas top, no fixed roof pillars, and side curtains rather than roll-up windows, making it a quintessential 1920s touring car. Powered by a 220 cubic-inch inline six-cylinder engine, the Series 65 was considered a well-engineered automobile for its day, with hydraulic four-wheel brakes — a feature Chrysler had championed since 1924 and a genuine safety advantage over competitors still using mechanical brakes. The car rides on a ladder-frame chassis with semi-elliptic leaf springs at all four corners and mechanical fuel delivery via a vacuum tank system. Today this vehicle is a collectible antique. It has not been daily-driven in decades and requires the knowledge of a pre-war specialist, not a modern shop. Anyone owning or considering one should think of it as a rolling restoration project that rewards patience, period-correct parts sourcing, and an appreciation for early automotive engineering.
Known for
- Early adoption of hydraulic four-wheel brakes — ahead of many competitors in 1928
- Smooth, reliable inline-six engine that was over-engineered for the era
- Classic open Phaeton coachwork with sweeping fenders and running boards
- Vacuum-tank fuel feed system — no electric fuel pump
- Strong Chrysler build quality relative to comparable 1920s vehicles
Best for
- Antique car collectors and show participants
- Enthusiasts with pre-war mechanical restoration experience
- Owners who have access to a marque club (Chrysler 300 Club, WPC Club) for parts and knowledge
- Fair-weather and parade driving only
Watch for
- Vacuum fuel tank failures — ethanol in modern pump gas degrades original rubber and pot-metal fittings
- Original 6-volt positive-ground electrical system is incompatible with modern accessories without conversion
- Canvas top and side curtains deteriorate rapidly if stored improperly or exposed to Wisconsin winters
- Wooden body framing (ash) rots silently behind body panels — common in open cars stored in damp conditions
- Brake adjustment is critical — hydraulic systems of this era require precise shoe adjustment and fresh fluid
Common issues by mileage
6 knownHydraulic brake system degradation (cups, hoses, master cylinder)
high- Typically appears
- All mileages on aged vehicles
- Estimated repair
- $400 – $1,800
Wooden body frame (ash) rot behind body panels
high- Typically appears
- All — age-driven, not mileage-driven
- Estimated repair
- $1,500 – $8,000
6-volt electrical system failures (wiring insulation, generator, ignition points)
high- Typically appears
- All mileages on aged vehicles
- Estimated repair
- $200 – $1,200
Carburetor deterioration from ethanol-blended fuel
high- Typically appears
- Any car run on modern pump gas
- Estimated repair
- $300 – $900
Babbit bearing wear in crankshaft / connecting rods
medium- Typically appears
- High mileage or long idle storage
- Estimated repair
- $1,500 – $5,000
Maintenance schedule
- 1 Every fill-up Use ethanol-free gasoline exclusively
Ethanol attacks the pot-metal and rubber components in the vacuum tank and carburetor. Ethanol-free premium is available at several stations in the Lake Geneva area and is mandatory for long-term reliability.
- 2 Every 2 years or before any driving season Flush and replace brake fluid (period-correct hydraulic brake fluid or DOT 3 where compatible)
Original Lockheed-style hydraulic brake systems absorb moisture over time. Contaminated fluid leads to swollen cups and corrosion inside the master and wheel cylinders — a genuine safety issue.
- 3 Every spring before driving season Inspect and re-tension ignition points; check spark plugs
Points-based ignition requires periodic gap adjustment. After winter storage, points can oxidize and plugs can foul, leading to hard starts and misfires.
- 4 Every spring and fall, or every 1,000 operating miles Engine oil change with non-detergent straight-weight oil (SAE 30 or 40)
Modern detergent oils can loosen decades of sludge in babbitt-bearing engines and carry it through oil passages, causing bearing damage. Non-detergent oil is correct for this engine.
- 5 Every 500 operating miles or at start of driving season Lubricate all grease fittings (zerks) on chassis, kingpins, and steering linkage
1920s chassis rely heavily on hand-lubrication. Dry kingpins and tie-rod ends wear rapidly and affect steering precision.
- 6 Annually before storage Inspect and treat canvas top and side curtains
Open Phaeton tops are vulnerable to mold, cracking, and frame rot. A period-appropriate canvas preservative prevents premature failure; improperly stored tops can cost $2,000–$5,000+ to replace.
- 7 Every 2–3 years by a coachwork specialist Inspect wooden body framing for moisture intrusion and rot
Ash framing behind the body panels is the structural backbone of the Phaeton body. Wisconsin's freeze-thaw cycles accelerate moisture damage. Catching rot early saves significant restoration cost.
- 8 Every spring Check coolant and radiator hoses; test thermostat
The cooling system uses a simple thermosyphon or early pump design. Original rubber hoses are long gone — replacements should be inspected for cracking annually, especially after sub-zero Wisconsin storage.
Always defer to the manufacturer's service manual for warranty-mandated intervals.
Cost of ownership
Annual maintenance
$500 – $3,500
Fuel
Minimal — this vehicle sees very low annual mileage. Ethanol-free premium gasoline is required. Fuel cost is negligible compared to maintenance.
Insurance
Antique/collector vehicle insurance is typically very affordable — often $150–$400/year through specialty insurers — because agreed-value policies are used and mileage is severely limited.
Annual maintenance costs vary enormously based on restoration state. A freshly restored, well-sorted example might need only consumables (oil, grease, ignition points) for $500–$800 per year. A car coming out of storage or with deferred work can easily run $2,000–$3,500+ in a single season. Budget generously; pre-war specialist labor is billed at standard shop rates but requires double the time of modern car work due to parts sourcing and hand-fitting.
Seasonal care
Lake Geneva, WI Winter
- Do NOT drive this vehicle on Wisconsin winter roads. Road salt will rapidly destroy original or restored sheet metal, the chassis, and any exposed wood. Store it entirely from first frost through spring.
- Store indoors in a climate-controlled or at minimum heated space. Unheated storage allows freeze-thaw cycling that cracks hoses, rubber gaskets, and deteriorates the canvas top.
- Drain the cooling system completely if storage space is unheated, or use a properly mixed antifreeze — original ethylene glycol antifreeze is appropriate.
- Disconnect the 6-volt battery and store it on a trickle maintainer rated for 6-volt systems. Modern 12-volt maintainers will overcharge and destroy a 6-volt battery.
- Fog the cylinders with light oil through the spark plug holes before long-term storage to prevent rust on cylinder walls.
- Cover with a breathable car cover — never plastic — to prevent moisture condensation on the body and canvas.
Summer
- Check coolant level before every outing — early cooling systems have minimal reserve capacity and can boil over quickly in traffic or heat.
- Avoid prolonged idling in summer heat; the thermosyphon or early water pump cooling system is not designed for modern stop-and-go traffic conditions.
- Inspect tire condition carefully before summer driving. Bias-ply or reproduction tires on 1920s rims have very different handling characteristics than modern radials — heat increases this risk.
- Keep a fire extinguisher in the car. Vacuum fuel tanks and cloth wiring insulation are genuine fire hazards, especially after a hot soak.
- Check all grease fittings before summer driving season — heat accelerates grease breakdown in kingpins and chassis joints.
Comparable vehicles
1928 Buick
Series 128 Phaeton
Direct contemporary in the same price and prestige tier. Also an open touring car with a six-cylinder engine. Strong marque club support and comparable parts availability on the collector market.
No catalog match1928 Dodge
Senior Six Phaeton
Dodge was a Chrysler corporate sibling by 1928 and shares some engineering DNA. Slightly more accessible price point as a collectible; similar mechanical challenges.
No catalog match1928 Studebaker
Commander Phaeton
Comparable open touring car from a competing independent manufacturer. Similar inline-six power, similar collector market value, and similar pre-war ownership demands.
No catalog match1928 Packard
Series 526 Phaeton
A step above the Series 65 in prestige and price, but frequently compared in the collector market. Stronger marque club and parts ecosystem, but higher acquisition and restoration costs.
No catalog matchIf you're shopping for one
Red flags
- Any evidence of winter road use — salt corrosion on the undercarriage or chassis is a serious structural concern on a 90+ year old vehicle.
- Repaired or replaced brake master cylinder with no documentation — brake system integrity is non-negotiable.
- Seller cannot provide restoration documentation or history; unknown work on pre-war vehicles often means incorrect or unsafe repairs.
- Visible rust perforation on body panels or chassis rails — surface rust is expected, but structural rust perforations change the economics of the entire project.
- Engine that won't run or has unknown internal condition — babbitt bearing inspection and re-pour is a specialist job costing $1,500–$5,000+.
- Mismatched or non-original body components without disclosure — originality drives collector value significantly on pre-war Chryslers.
What to inspect
- Probe all body sills, door pillars, and floor boards for soft spots indicating wooden frame rot — a flashlight and a blunt probe tool are essential.
- Inspect the vacuum fuel tank mounted on the firewall for cracks, repairs, or leaks; smell for fuel inside the engine bay.
- Operate every brake at slow speed and check for pulling, sponginess, or a low pedal — hydraulic brake components are nearly 100 years old.
- Check all rubber hoses (radiator, fuel, any brake lines) for cracking, swelling, or wet spots.
- Test the 6-volt electrical system: headlights, horn, and ignition function. Look for spliced modern wiring, which often indicates a botched repair.
- Inspect the canvas top and side curtains for mold, tears, and frame condition — replacements are expensive and require specialty shops.
- Look for evidence of road salt exposure: white crystalline deposits under the chassis, on suspension components, or inside the frame rails are a red flag indicating the car has been driven in winter.