Deteriorated or cracked wooden body framing
high- Typically appears
- All ages — age/storage-driven
- Estimated repair
- $3,000 – $20,000
1925 Cadillac
Type V-63Phaeton
314 CI V8 · Phaeton
The 1925 Cadillac Type V-63 Phaeton is a pre-war American luxury automobile — a large, open-bodied four-door touring car built on Cadillac's prestige platform of the era. It was powered by Cadillac's pioneering 314 cubic-inch (5.1L) L-head V8, an engine that set the standard for smooth, refined power at a time when most rivals relied on four- or six-cylinder engines. The Phaeton body style features fold-down fabric side curtains (not glass windows), a canvas convertible top, and wide running boards — quintessential of American luxury in the Roaring Twenties. This vehicle is now a century-old collector's automobile. It is not a daily driver by any practical standard — it exists in the realm of concours shows, parades, private collections, and careful museum-grade preservation. Mechanical parts are largely hand-fitted or reproduced by specialist suppliers; there is no dealer network, no OBD port, and no electronic systems of any kind. Owning one means joining a community of dedicated enthusiasts and relying on pre-war specialty shops, marque clubs (CCCA, AACA), and one-off machining. Budget generously for restoration and storage — the reward is one of the most historically significant American automobiles ever produced.
Reliability
3/5
Verified data
Engine
314 CI L-head V8
Drivetrain
RWD
Fuel
Gasoline
MPG
8 city / 12 hwy / 10 combined
Seats
5
Doors
4
Body
Convertible
MSRP
$3,350
Overview
AI-curatedThe 1925 Cadillac Type V-63 Phaeton is a pre-war American luxury automobile — a large, open-bodied four-door touring car built on Cadillac's prestige platform of the era. It was powered by Cadillac's pioneering 314 cubic-inch (5.1L) L-head V8, an engine that set the standard for smooth, refined power at a time when most rivals relied on four- or six-cylinder engines. The Phaeton body style features fold-down fabric side curtains (not glass windows), a canvas convertible top, and wide running boards — quintessential of American luxury in the Roaring Twenties. This vehicle is now a century-old collector's automobile. It is not a daily driver by any practical standard — it exists in the realm of concours shows, parades, private collections, and careful museum-grade preservation. Mechanical parts are largely hand-fitted or reproduced by specialist suppliers; there is no dealer network, no OBD port, and no electronic systems of any kind. Owning one means joining a community of dedicated enthusiasts and relying on pre-war specialty shops, marque clubs (CCCA, AACA), and one-off machining. Budget generously for restoration and storage — the reward is one of the most historically significant American automobiles ever produced.
Known for
- Cadillac's landmark L-head V8 — smooth, quiet, and well ahead of competitors in 1925
- Imposing, coachbuilt-quality Phaeton bodywork with hand-fitted wood framing
- Ride quality and refinement that defined American luxury for the decade
- Heavy, durable construction using period materials — brass fittings, leather, canvas
Best for
- Serious pre-war automobile collectors
- Concours d'Elegance and CCCA/AACA show participants
- Parades and ceremonial use
- Museum display and historical preservation
Watch for
- No modern safety features whatsoever — mechanical brakes, no seatbelts, no crumple zones
- Open Phaeton body offers no weather protection; unsuitable for regular road use
- Complete absence of replacement parts in the aftermarket mainstream — specialist sourcing required
- Wood body framing rots when moisture intrudes; fabric top and side curtains degrade with age
- Ethanol in modern pump gasoline can damage original fuel system components
Common issues by mileage
6 knownFuel system degradation from ethanol blends — rotted fuel lines, dissolved gaskets, varnished carburetor
high- Typically appears
- Any example run on modern pump gas
- Estimated repair
- $500 – $2,500
Mechanical brake fade and worn brake linings — four-wheel mechanical drum system with limited stopping power
high- Typically appears
- All — requires periodic relining
- Estimated repair
- $600 – $2,000
Main and rod bearing wear — babbit bearings require periodic inspection and re-poring
medium- Typically appears
- High-use or long-dormant examples
- Estimated repair
- $1,500 – $5,000
Canvas top and side curtain deterioration — fabric tears, frame rot, snap and fastener failure
high- Typically appears
- All ages — material lifespan
- Estimated repair
- $800 – $4,000
Cooling system failure — radiator corrosion, hose collapse, thermostat wear
medium- Typically appears
- All — especially re-awakened stored vehicles
- Estimated repair
- $400 – $2,500
Maintenance schedule
- 1 Before every use season Drain and flush cooling system; inspect radiator for internal corrosion; refill with non-silicate coolant appropriate for babbit-bearing engines
Modern coolant inhibitors can react poorly with the cast iron, copper, and brass in a pre-war cooling system. Corrosion is the leading cause of cooling failure on stored vehicles.
- 2 Before every use season Drain and inspect fuel tank, lines, and carburetor float bowl for varnish or ethanol damage; use ethanol-free premium fuel or an ethanol fuel stabilizer
Ethanol attacks natural rubber and leather seals, accelerates tank rust, and leaves gum deposits that clog the updraft carburetor. Ethanol-free fuel is strongly preferred.
- 3 Annually or after any hard use Adjust and reline mechanical four-wheel brakes; check brake rod and cable geometry
Mechanical brakes require precise adjustment at all four corners for balanced, effective stopping. Imbalance can pull the car sharply under braking — a safety hazard.
- 4 Every 500 miles of use or annually Lubricate all chassis grease fittings (there are many — follow the factory lubrication chart); check and top engine oil
Pre-war chassis have numerous exposed lubrication points. Unlike modern sealed bearings, these require manual attention or they wear rapidly.
- 5 Every 1,000 miles or annually Check and adjust valve clearances (tappets) on the L-head engine
Solid lifter L-head engines require periodic valve adjustment to maintain power, prevent valve burning, and reduce noise.
- 6 Annually Inspect wood body framing at all joints for moisture intrusion, rot, and loosened fasteners
The Phaeton body is framed in ash or similar hardwood. A single wet season can begin rot that compromises structural integrity and panel fit.
- 7 Before and after storage Fog cylinders with preservation oil, drain carburetor, and store with a quality battery maintainer on the 6-volt system (or disconnect battery)
Extended storage causes cylinder rust, gummed carburetors, and dead batteries. Proper layup is far cheaper than the repairs that follow a neglected winter.
- 8 Every 2–3 years or as needed Have babbit main and rod bearings inspected by a pre-war engine specialist; re-pour if clearances are excessive
Babbit bearings are the engine's most maintenance-sensitive component. They cannot be replaced with off-the-shelf inserts — they require specialist re-pouring and fitting.
Always defer to the manufacturer's service manual for warranty-mandated intervals.
Cost of ownership
Annual maintenance
$1,500 – $8,000
Fuel
Ethanol-free premium gasoline is strongly preferred. At ~10 MPG and light use (500–1,500 miles/year typical for a show car), annual fuel cost is modest — but sourcing ethanol-free fuel in Wisconsin requires planning. Expect $200–$600/year in fuel for typical collector use.
Insurance
Agreed-value collector car insurance is essential and typically inexpensive relative to the vehicle's value — often $300–$800/year depending on stated value and storage situation. Standard auto insurance is inappropriate for this vehicle.
Annual costs vary enormously based on the vehicle's current condition and how actively it is used or restored. A well-sorted, show-ready example in regular light use might see $1,500–$3,000/year in routine maintenance and consumables. A car undergoing restoration or needing significant mechanical work can easily exceed $8,000–$20,000 in a single year. Budget separately for enclosed, climate-controlled storage — this is not optional for a car of this value and material construction.
Seasonal care
Lake Geneva, WI Winter
- Full winter storage is mandatory — this open Phaeton has no weather protection and road salt will destroy the chassis, body hardware, and exposed mechanical components within seasons
- Store in a heated or at minimum climate-stable enclosed space; temperature swings cause wood framing to crack and canvas to degrade
- Fog cylinder bores with preservation oil before layup to prevent rust on bare cast iron
- Drain the carburetor float bowl completely; add fuel stabilizer and run briefly before final shutdown to clear the fuel system
- Place the vehicle on jack stands to relieve tire flat-spotting during months-long storage
- Disconnect or use a low-amperage maintainer on the 6-volt positive-ground electrical system — standard modern chargers can damage 6V systems
Summer
- Monitor engine temperature closely during slow parade or show use — low-speed airflow through the radiator is minimal and pre-war cooling systems have little reserve capacity
- Carry period-appropriate tools and a basic spares kit (spare inner tube, points, condenser, fan belt) — roadside assistance for a 100-year-old vehicle is effectively non-existent
- Inspect canvas top and side curtain snaps and bows before any use where summer showers are possible — open cars can take on significant water before a top can be raised
- Check tire condition carefully; bias-ply or reproduction tires age-crack and lose integrity even with low mileage — inspect sidewalls before each use season
Comparable vehicles
1925 Packard
Six / Eight Touring
Packard was Cadillac's primary luxury rival in the mid-1920s. A Packard touring car of the same era offers comparable prestige, similar open-body ownership challenges, and competes directly in CCCA and concours judging classes.
No catalog match1925 Lincoln
Model L Phaeton
The Lincoln Model L, freshly under Ford ownership in 1925, competed head-to-head with the V-63 in the American luxury market. Both are V8-powered, coachbuilt-quality open tourers with similar collector standing today.
No catalog match1926 Pierce-Arrow
Series 80 Touring
Pierce-Arrow represented the apex of American pre-war luxury alongside Cadillac and Packard. A Series 80 Touring is a natural comparable for any collector evaluating or showing a V-63 Phaeton.
No catalog match1925 Chrysler
Model B-70 Touring
The 1925 Chrysler B-70 was a direct mainstream competitor — a more affordable but technically impressive touring car that ate into the upper-middle luxury market Cadillac targeted. Useful reference for buyers comparing price-to-collectibility.
No catalog matchIf you're shopping for one
Red flags
- Non-matching engine or serial numbers without full documented provenance — a significant deduction in value and authenticity
- Evidence of modern welded structural repairs to the frame — indicates past collision or severe corrosion damage
- Incorrect or missing coachwork details (wrong hood ornament, non-period lamps, modern gauges grafted in) — costly to reverse for show use
- Active oil leaks from the pan or timing cover combined with knocking at idle — indicates deferred engine work that can run $5,000–$15,000+
- Any evidence the vehicle has been driven in rain or wet conditions without proper storage after — wood rot and electrical corrosion follow quickly
- Modern tires or wheels substituted without documentation — affects authenticity scoring and may indicate the original wheels are damaged or missing
What to inspect
- Probe all wood body framing joints for softness, rot, or separation — especially along the floor, door pillars, and top bows
- Verify engine number and body tag match known V-63 factory records; mismatched numbers significantly affect collector value
- Test all four mechanical brakes for even adjustment and functional rod/cable linkages before any road movement
- Inspect the babbit bearings by checking for excessive crankshaft end play and rod knock at idle — budget a bearing inspection by a pre-war specialist before purchase
- Check the radiator for internal rust scale by removing the cap and shining a light in — heavy scale means a recore is coming
- Examine the canvas top frame for broken or bent bows, missing or broken fasteners, and fabric integrity
- Verify the 6-volt positive-ground electrical system charges and that the generator output is correct — rewiring is expensive
- Look for any signs of amateur body filler, non-original paint colors, or incorrect replacement hardware that would affect judging class eligibility